Showing posts with label #6 brush. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #6 brush. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Keepin' it real

One thing you can say about shaving with the marketed brands is that it keeps it real simple, there actually aren't a hell of a lot of choices if you're trying to 'be current'.

There are more dangers than just bleeding when you shave like a MAN. There are so many choices that you can easily spend a TON of money on the various ADs (Acquisition Disorders). Do you know how many kinds of cool/effective razors there are out there? Brushes? Soaps/Creams? Blades? After shaves?

How about the various combinations and permutations thereof?

The good news is that you can indeed keep it real, save money, AND have the closest/best/irritation-free DAILY shaves of your LIFE.

Take Razors: You can spend ridiculous coin on some stupid-assed vintage Gillette 'Fatboy', or just get a Yuma and learn how to drive it. Turn that fucking Fatboy up to 11 and it will not cut closer than a Yuma. Another good DE choice for beginners and experts alike if you can't handle a scabby used razor is the LORD L6, which features 'load-and-go' tolerances for about $10 delivered if you order directly from the vendor on B&B instead of his Ebay store - he will include a variety of blades to get you started. Another ridiculously cheap but wickedly effective razor that is an absolute pleasure to drive would be a 1912, which unlike a Yuma will easily outlast you and your children. Really, really nice minty ones can be easily found for under $15.

Blades: Again, you can spend stupid money and only use Feathers once in your Fatboy, but I have found that really ANY blade works in a Yuma or Lord, some just last longer than others - Any of the Egyptian stainless blades are a great choice, and they feature recyclable/compostable packaging. If you go the 1912 Gem route I think your best blade choice is one of the thick-spined 'vintage' blades - that REALLY takes care of the whole 'carbon footprint' thing. Of course you will need additional gear but you can indeed make your own effective strops...

Brushes: Someday when I strike it rich maybe I'll go for a badger of some kind, but until then I am more than satisfied with a $2.50 Turkish horsehair brush that holds 4+ passes of lather and feels great on the face.

Soaps: You can spend upwards of $60 for some stupid-assed soap in a bowl that isn't going to work any better than a stick of Arko. AND you need to find room to keep it. The 'footprint' of an Arko stick is as miniscule as the price. Besides, face-lathering obviates the need for any additional 'prep'. Better all the way around. At the risk of coming across as a shill for Arko, as a product it really is quasi perfect. Abundant, slick and nourishing lather - and I for one appreciate that there is practically no 'packaging' to end up in the bin. If you can't handle the smell, all I can say is that you have 'issues'. Can you handle the price? The performance?

After-Shave: Here again, you have an opportunity to drop major coin. All you really need is alum and/or witch hazel and maybe a tiny bit of some EV coconut oil from the kitchen if there is a 'dry skin' issue. I have oily skin - all I use is alum and almost never even rise it off. Shit works great and is practically free.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

#6 Horsehair brush

The #6 brush


Before WWI, most shaving brushes were, like this one, made of horsehair. There were some issues with anthrax and they fell out of favor in the West and were supplanted by boar and badger (depending on your class). This Turkish brush will deliver and hold a rich and luxurious lather once the ends begin to split after a week or so of use. Bruce on Shaving, a most respectable expert, claims these brushes have 85% of the good points of both boar and badger. I can neither confirm nor deny as I have never tried a badger. It's just a nice, effective brush that costs $2.50 - can you dig it? It may or may not have a strong animal stink when new. If so, try shampooing it a few times and it should be fine. After use, rinse all of the soap out. Shake. Squeeze bristles in corner of towel. Shake again. Now you can put it on the counter bristles up and it will actually dry. You want it to mold/rot? Don't do those things, and you'll be out another $2.50. Another point to consider is that some people who habitually soak their whole brush in the sink have had some problems, when you soak, just submerge the tips. Use a glass.

Another major point in favor of horse brushes? They dry much quicker than boar or badger - just a few hours standing up on its handle is all it takes for mine to completely dry.

buy it here:
http://shop.bestshave.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=67

After 6 weeks, it just gets better and has only shed maybe 6 hairs in all which is pretty incredible for any brush.