Blades, Schmades REDUX

Well I appealed to the B&B community for one Feather blade, just to see if it's as badass as they say. Let's just say that a kind enabler sent the following blades, on his own righteous dime:

When you unwrap it, it's true, the Feather LOOKS better than any other blade. Just looking at it, you can see the quality. But that means little when a blade that 'looks' like total shit, such as the "Bleue Extra" totally delivers on all the points that count - sharpness/smoothness/longevity/price. Throwing caution to the wind, I put a new Feather in a Yuma and tried it this morning.

It was no more scary than with the same razor and a (Russian) Permasharp. Is it sharp? Hell yes, but if you know how to drive it doesn't matter. I'm curious about how long they last - they don't have a good reputation for longevity and the Permasharp of which I speak has so far has 5 badass shaves to its name.

Traded out the PS (5) in the Slim with the Feather (1), set at 7 which I've been liking, and as expected #2 on the Feather was quite nice, sharp and smooth. Shave 3 on the Feather was in the 40s Super Speed - very nice. #4 will be back in the Slim, opened up a notch just for fun.

Keepin' it real

One thing you can say about shaving with the marketed brands is that it keeps it real simple, there actually aren't a hell of a lot of choices if you're trying to 'be current'.

There are more dangers than just bleeding when you shave like a MAN. There are so many choices that you can easily spend a TON of money on the various ADs (Acquisition Disorders). Do you know how many kinds of cool/effective razors there are out there? Brushes? Soaps/Creams? Blades? After shaves?

How about the various combinations and permutations thereof?

The good news is that you can indeed keep it real, save money, AND have the closest/best/irritation-free DAILY shaves of your LIFE.

Take Razors: You can spend ridiculous coin on some stupid-assed vintage Gillette 'Fatboy', or just get a Yuma and learn how to drive it. Turn that fucking Fatboy up to 11 and it will not cut closer than a Yuma. Another good DE choice for beginners and experts alike if you can't handle a scabby used razor is the LORD L6, which features 'load-and-go' tolerances for about $10 delivered if you order directly from the vendor on B&B instead of his Ebay store - he will include a variety of blades to get you started. Another ridiculously cheap but wickedly effective razor that is an absolute pleasure to drive would be a 1912, which unlike a Yuma will easily outlast you and your children. Really, really nice minty ones can be easily found for under $15.

Blades: Again, you can spend stupid money and only use Feathers once in your Fatboy, but I have found that really ANY blade works in a Yuma or Lord, some just last longer than others - Any of the Egyptian stainless blades are a great choice, and they feature recyclable/compostable packaging. If you go the 1912 Gem route I think your best blade choice is one of the thick-spined 'vintage' blades - that REALLY takes care of the whole 'carbon footprint' thing. Of course you will need additional gear but you can indeed make your own effective strops...

Brushes: Someday when I strike it rich maybe I'll go for a badger of some kind, but until then I am more than satisfied with a $2.50 Turkish horsehair brush that holds 4+ passes of lather and feels great on the face.

Soaps: You can spend upwards of $60 for some stupid-assed soap in a bowl that isn't going to work any better than a stick of Arko. AND you need to find room to keep it. The 'footprint' of an Arko stick is as miniscule as the price. Besides, face-lathering obviates the need for any additional 'prep'. Better all the way around. At the risk of coming across as a shill for Arko, as a product it really is quasi perfect. Abundant, slick and nourishing lather - and I for one appreciate that there is practically no 'packaging' to end up in the bin. If you can't handle the smell, all I can say is that you have 'issues'. Can you handle the price? The performance?

After-Shave: Here again, you have an opportunity to drop major coin. All you really need is alum and/or witch hazel and maybe a tiny bit of some EV coconut oil from the kitchen if there is a 'dry skin' issue. I have oily skin - all I use is alum and almost never even rise it off. Shit works great and is practically free.

1/2 DE Blade Holder for GEM 1912

A member on B&B came up with this absolutely BRILLIANT trick in 2009 - he was poo-pooed. I 'bumped' the thread in May, and am reproducing the original post here in the hope of giving MEN another reason to love the GEM 1912. My 'research' already led me to believe that the 1912, whether GEM, GEM Junior, STAR, or Ever-Ready is the perfect marriage of style and function. It is more than arguable that all safety razor design has been downhill ever since. Using this simple 'trick', you can use your 1912 with the 1/2 DE Blade of your choice - the better news is that it is in no way a compromise in shave quality - it's as good as any shave from any razor IME. I have found that the cheap, ubiquitous DERBY is a fine match in the 1912 using this method. I have found that I can get 3 faceturbation quality shaves from half a DERBY - whereas 4 is my limit for a DERBY in a DE razor. In perhaps a unique case of YM not V-ing, the original inventor also likes DERBY in the 1912.To me it just means that the 1912 is a better design than most DE razors. I will make an exception for the YUMA, because I have been known to go the YUMA for touchups when nothing else will work, but a Yuma has nothing on a 1912 for looks or build quality. My flare tip Super Speed is built like a toy compared to the 1912. The bottom line: the 1912 SE variants are superb razors even a century later. Shitloads were produced and finding a 'nice' one for $10 is easy. A great thing gets even better when you realize that you have no reason to be limited in your blade choices. I really believe this is the ultimate cheapskate solution that works unbelievably well! It's just WIN WIN WIN - quality, looks, price - get busy, Spuds!

Making a DE blade holder for your GEM 1912 razor

Have you ever wished you could use your favorite DE blade in a SE razor?

Here is what I've come up with:

MATERIALS: 2 SE blades, epoxy and a little patience.

STEP 1: Carefully remove the spines from both blades. Do this by gently, by prying the spines away from the blades with a small screwdriver or knife. Try not to bend the blades or damage the spines. Pry them away only enough to get the blades out.

STEP 2: Carefully place the blades together face to face. This should be a tight fit without space between the faces of the blades. Flip the blades arround and try to get them to match perfectly. If the blades are bowed or bent start over.

STEP 3: Apply a THIN coat of epoxy from the sharp edge right up to (NOT BEYOND) the notch on the inside face of one of the blades. Lay a piece of paper on the area beyond the epoxy and stick the blades together face to face. The paper will keep the epoxy from moving toward the back of the blade.

Step 4: Keeping both blades together (and all edges even) slide the SHARP EDGE side into one of the spines. Make sure it goes all the way in and keep all edges lined up. Crimp it tight with pliers and remove the paper blotter from between the blades as the epoxy sets.

When the epoxy has set you're ready to go. Snap your favorite DE blade in half (ALWAYS leave the blade in the wrapper when snapping, to avoid embarrassing wounds to fingers and possible splinters in the eyes) and carefully slide it into your new holder. The epoxy acts as a stop. Put the whole thing into a GEM 1912 style razor and start shaving.

This won't work with early 1914s or the Micromatics, but if you snap the little tabs off the ends of your half DE blade it works incredibly well in the 1924 "Shovelhead."

What can I say... I really love my GEMS.

DE or SE?

There is an ever-growing horde of rabid SE users active on the boards, hell bent on converting people from DE to SE. If results and cheapness are your bag, SE is for you. The much meatier SE blades can be touched up and used over and over, and face it, the vintage SE razors are cool and relatively undervalued, although that is changing. Lots of pros, and a couple of cons: There are not nearly as many models of SE razors or blades as are there are in the truly international world of DE. To resume:

SE PROs
Utterly cheap if you are 'handy' and can touch up your edge without fucking it up (not difficult)

The really old razors are pretty gorgeous and steam-punky:

The rest of the razors will appeal to fans of the DECO - Moderne aesthetic:

The build quality of the all-metal models is truly first rate, it will outlive you no problem.

Even nice old ones are relatively cheap. I paid 15 USD for nice OCMM with a mint case and 30 blades.

SE CONs
VERY limited choice of razors and blades compared to DE.

At least on my face, SE blades out of the box are dull and pull like a MF

If you're not 'handy' enough to touch up the edge of SE blades, the blades are WAY more expensive than DE. You can still get decent Trac II/Atra carts for less.

CAVEAT - If you have a pre-Micromatic SE razor like a GEM 1912 which are cheap and plentiful you can pretty easily make a robust and effective holder for DE blades - so that's a real advantage over just about any razor on the planet if you ask me. Sadly, this will not work in Micromatics or later:
DE Blade Holder DIY
DE Blade Holder pics


DE PROs
HUGE, international variety of both razors and blades, to satisfy any possible budget and/or aesthetic.

DE is the original disposable "system" - one of Gillette's original pitches was "no honing, no stropping". If you have a TTO, switching out blades is a breeze. Even the 3 piece DE razors as a group are pretty easy and idiot proof assembly-wise. Blade gets dull, you pitch it. Easy.

QUITE cheap if you find a cheap blade you like and buy in bulk. I've had sublime shaves from the lowly YUMA - you can too.

Best for beginners.

DE CONs
Even the best blades are good for no more than a week or shaves before they have to be pitched.

Forget about any vintage Gillette other than the Tech - the prices are ridiculous. You'll never get one off the boards either unless you are lurking 24/7.

OK, somebody help me - I'm not coming up with any more CONs

GEM Micromatic OC

The "OCMM" is one of the bad boys. Most fear it, which made me really want to give it a try. For a mere $15 delivered with an assortment of blades, I got this fine example of made in USA quality. The GEM takes the single edged blades, like a paint scraper. You should never try blades from Home Depot though, just go to the drug store, Rite Aid and Walgreen's both have them on the shelf.

First, the razor itself is truly a thing of beauty - hold it in your hand, and you will be proud to be an American (if you are one). The heft, the precision, the Art Deco styling, wow.

The first shave was underwhelming. I used one of the PAL Blue blades - and they do indeed suck. I came very close to pitching it halfway through the first (WTG) pass, it was tugging so bad but I decided to tough it out. The verdict is the shave was decent, but in no way spectacular. This razor has a reputation for being badass that is overhyped and undeserved. I suspect that the whimps who cower in fear before this razor and play up its dangers have never even tried the damned thing. The fact is that (for now) I can get a better shave from my Yuma with half the passes. That's right, I said it - my $2.50 Yuma is more badass. But, and this is a pretty significant but, The GEM is truly a beautiful thing. The YUMA is nothing more than a holder for a blade - quite literally - the 'safety' bars are purely decorative.

Shave #2, I used a GEM Personna blade. Waaaay better. Still took 4+ passes to get there, but the GEM delivers. I could get used to this except I'm such a cheapskate and SE blades are 40-50 cents each and there are only a few available options unlike the bountiful (3rd) world of DE. Even so, SE is still waaaaay cheaper than carts. The second shave was good though, as good as 3 passes with the YUMA. Don't be a whimp, the OCMM is nothing to fear.

Pre and Post shave stropping on jeans has resulted in buttery smooth shaves with carbon blades.

Ghetto "Safety" Razor Set-up

How much money do you need to get started? You could spend a whole hell of a lot more than $10 and not get better gear than this setup, 100% made in Turkey:

Yuma razor $2.50
#6 brush $2.50
Arko stick $2.00
assorted blades - a few more bucks. If you get hooked, you can buy a 2-3 year supply of blades for $15-20

OK, my chunk of alum is actually from Thailand. You can get an authentic Turkish barber alum block for just a couple of bucks - probably not a bad option when you see what vendors are charging for them on Amazon and definitely worth a try if you live somewhere without Asian groceries. It may not be pretty, but the performance is absolutely undeniably great! Available from bestshave.net now. Be a man and get over there.

Blades, schmades!

I'm going to break with the orthodox on this, I don't think there really is all that much difference between DE blades. There is ferocious brand loyalty out there, but I'm pretty well convinced that a blade's a blade. Ever examine one? it's just a sharp, micro-thin piece of steel. Even medium fancy brands like Astra have the classic Warsaw Pact small arms grease on them. They smell like what they are. Ammo. The old Schick injector is another good example of this, literally inspired by the feeding mechanism of semi-autos. They all pretty much work, until they get dull and then you pitch them. That's what makes the very idea of fat-cat fancy DE razors, and kooks shelling out piles of money on ebay for 'collectibles' pretty ridiculous. Some asshole just bought 2 5-packs of vintage Winchester blades on Ebay for $685! WTF?!? Another asshole seller has a BIN on 6 NOS Gillette adjustable "Slims" for $1950! 4 days left - some jerk will buy it for sure! You could buy a fucking shipping container full of Yuma razors for that much dough! What is a DE razor? Even if it is handsomely crafted, it remains nothing more than a tool for holding a cheap DE blade. Some of the best shaves of my life have been with a lowly Yuma razor and the throwaway Zorrik East Indian blades that Miraç threw onto my order for free! bestshave.net - you can get a complete outfit for about $10. That includes a brush and a 3+ month supply of the best soap you ever used. Another $10 will get you a year's worth of decent blades. You may want more, but you sure as hell don't need more than this. Straight razor snobbery at least makes some sense, but to me DE is all about efficiency and frugality.

Cheapest and Manliest "Safety" Razor?

When it comes to the very cheapest and manliest, what other razor is there than the YUMA? What are the odds that a razor that costs only $2.50 can have such a dangerous and exotic allure?

check the exposure and gap - there literally is no 'safety' razor that is as aggressive as this. If you use any pressure at all you will make some nice deli slices of face.

Is it cheap? There is literally nothing cheaper that you would want anywhere near your face. It costs $2.50 - is that cheap enough?
Can you get a good shave with it? Absolutely.

The YUMA is loud, really loud. The hollow pot metal handle acts like a megaphone. It is a world away from the muffled high-pitched scritches of the "system" cartridges.

It's not a perfect world and this is not a perfect razor - there are a couple of issues that the user needs to be aware of:

It is constructed of shitty 3rd world 'metal'. You will deform it or break the safety bars off if you drop it onto the tile floor. The good news is the grip is actually very good and not likely to slip. Don't drop it or throw it and it will be fine. The other metal related issue is pretty obvious - you will crack/strip/ruin the threads in the handle if you overtighten. Happily, this too is easily avoided.

A key problem that the novice will have with the YUMA is that you actually have to tweak the blade alignment and exposure AS you tighten. If you just throw a blade in and tighten you WILL make a bloody mess. This is no Gilette twist-to-open, where you can load a blade with your eyes shut and it doesn't matter. The two things you need to visually confirm are the alignment by viewing from above, and the exposure by viewing the head end-on towards a light source. If you tighten too much you may find as I did that while the blade is aligned, one side of the razor was very mild (steep blade angle) and the other very aggressive. I backed up on the handle maybe 1/8 turn in all and it made the exposure the same on both sides. The razor was still solidly tight. It has never loosened on me during a shave. So already there are a lot of issues that aren't present in $10 and up razors! It's no trickier than a Gillette old-type, fwiw.

Saved the biggest potential issue for last: actually shaving with this thing. If you are coming from some other kind of DE razor, you should be fine as long as you respect the tool. Use the lightest of touches and you will get a great shave even with a 5 cent blade with a couple shaves on it. I have tried a number of blades in it, all with the best results imaginable:

ASCO
ASTRA
DERBY
LASER
RAPIRA SUPERSTEEL
SHARK SUPER STAINLESS
SUPERMAX BLUE DIAMOND
ZORRIK

If you are coming from the world of cartridges/disposables you will have picked up a lot of very bad habits that the YUMA will not forgive. Your bloody and scabby shame will be such that you will be unable to leave the house for a week. You have learned to stretch the useful life of the overpriced carts by applying lots of pressure. Admit it. If you apply a lot of pressure with a YUMA, somebody is going to need to call 911. No pressure! Visualize the blade just skimming the surface of the skin. Do yourself another favor and just go with the grain the first few times, and finish with your system. DO NOT try to get it all off in one pass, or two. You will bleed. Remember to rinse and re-lather for each pass. Do not go over areas with no lather repeatedly - you will pay. The "safety" bars on the YUMA are only decorative - it is difficult to conceive of a purer expression of the blade - you really only are aware of the blade itself, not the razor/holder. And the sound! You will hear each hair snap in half in terror of the approaching blade. I am proud to say that I have never had even the slightest nick with the YUMA - I simply respect its power - its power to harm, but also its power to deliver as good of a shave as razors that cost 20-50x more. Be a man and go to bestshave.net and order one or more now!